Walk into any knife shop and you'll see whetstones labeled with numbers like 400, 1000, 3000, and 8000. These grit numbers can be confusing for beginners, but understanding them is essential for effective sharpening. The grit you choose determines how much metal you remove, how quickly you work, and the final character of your edge.
This guide explains what grit numbers mean, when to use each range, and how to build a practical grit progression for your kitchen knives.
What Does Grit Mean?
Grit refers to the size of abrasive particles in a sharpening stone. The number corresponds to how many particles fit in a given area—higher numbers mean smaller, more densely packed particles. Smaller particles remove less metal per stroke but leave a finer, more polished surface.
Think of it like sandpaper: low-grit sandpaper (coarse) removes material quickly but leaves obvious scratches, while high-grit sandpaper (fine) removes material slowly but leaves a smooth finish.
Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) and European FEPA standards use different measurement systems. A JIS 1000 grit stone is roughly equivalent to a FEPA 400 grit stone. Most quality whetstones use JIS ratings—the numbers in this article follow that convention.
Grit Categories and Their Uses
Coarse Grits (120-400)
Coarse grits remove metal aggressively. Use them for:
- Repairing chips and significant edge damage
- Reprofiling a blade to a different angle
- Restoring a completely dull or neglected knife
- Fixing bevels that have been sharpened at inconsistent angles
Most home cooks rarely need coarse stones unless they've acquired damaged knives or want to reprofile edges. Aggressive metal removal also means more wear on your blade over time, so use these stones only when truly necessary.
Medium Grits (800-1500)
This is the workhorse range for most sharpening tasks. Medium grits:
- Establish a new edge on moderately dull knives
- Balance metal removal speed with reasonable surface finish
- Prepare the edge for higher-grit finishing (if desired)
- Produce a functional edge suitable for most kitchen work
A 1000-grit stone is often called the "do everything" stone because it handles regular maintenance sharpening effectively. For many home cooks, a 1000-grit stone alone produces edges sharp enough for daily use.
If you buy only one whetstone, make it a 1000-grit. It's coarse enough to restore dull edges but fine enough to produce a usable finish without additional stones.
Fine Grits (2000-3000)
Fine grits refine and polish the edge established by medium stones:
- Smooth out scratch patterns from coarser stones
- Reduce microscopic serrations for cleaner cuts
- Improve edge retention compared to medium-grit finishes
- Create a noticeably sharper edge with less drag
After sharpening on a 1000-grit stone, progressing to 3000 grit removes the scratches and creates a refined edge. This level of finish is appropriate for quality kitchen knives and produces excellent results for most users.
Extra-Fine Grits (4000-8000)
Extra-fine grits create polished, mirror-like finishes:
- Maximum sharpness for demanding cuts (sashimi, tomatoes)
- Aesthetic polish valued by enthusiasts
- Potentially improved food release
- Requires skill to use effectively
While impressive, edges above 6000 grit offer diminishing returns for most kitchen work. The ultra-polished edge may actually perform worse on some tasks—fibrous vegetables sometimes cut better with a slightly toothy edge from lower grits.
Ultra-Fine Grits (10000+)
These are specialty grits for razor edges and mirror polishes. Unless you're sharpening straight razors or pursuing the hobby purely for satisfaction, grits above 8000 aren't necessary for kitchen knives.
Building Your Grit Progression
An effective grit progression moves from coarser to finer stones without skipping too many steps. Large jumps between grits make it difficult to remove the scratches from the previous stone.
Recommended Progressions
Minimal Setup (1 stone):
- 1000 grit alone — adequate for maintenance sharpening
Basic Setup (2 stones):
- 1000 grit → 3000 grit — good balance of value and results
Complete Setup (3 stones):
- 400 grit → 1000 grit → 3000 or 6000 grit — handles repairs and produces refined edges
Enthusiast Setup (4+ stones):
- 400 → 1000 → 3000 → 6000 → 8000+ — for those who enjoy the process and seek the finest edges
Many stones feature different grits on each side (e.g., 1000/6000). These offer excellent value for beginners, providing a complete sharpening system in a single purchase. The King KW65 and similar combination stones are popular entry points.
Matching Grit to Task
Different situations call for different grits:
- Regular maintenance on a knife that's slightly dull: Start at 1000, finish at 3000
- Knife hasn't been sharpened in months: Start at 400 or 800, progress through 1000 to 3000
- Visible chips in the edge: Start at 400 or lower until chips are removed, then progress upward
- Quick touch-up: Just the 3000 or a honing steel may suffice
The Toothy vs. Polished Debate
A common misconception is that higher grits always mean better. In reality, some tasks benefit from a toothier edge:
- Toothy edges (1000-grit finish): Better bite on rope, cardboard, tomato skin, and crusty bread
- Polished edges (6000+ finish): Cleaner cuts through dense proteins, better push cuts, superior for sashimi
Professional sushi chefs polish their yanagibas to mirror finishes because the fish requires clean cuts for presentation. But a 1000-grit finish on a bread knife would likely outperform a polished edge. Consider what you actually cut when deciding how far to progress.
Practical Advice for Home Cooks
Don't overthink grit selection. For most home cooking:
- Start with a 1000/3000 or 1000/6000 combination stone
- Use the 1000 side for regular sharpening
- Finish on the finer side for a polished edge
- Add a coarse stone later if you need to repair damage
As your skills develop, you'll naturally discover which finishes you prefer for different knives and tasks. The best grit progression is the one you'll actually use consistently.